Friday, 20 February 2009

Look! A naked white guy!

It was bound to happen eventually. I finally got ill. It's gone now, and I'm pretty sure it wasn't malaria, so its all good.

Its been as bizarre as ever, and full of ups and downs as usual. As well as the illness, the downs include weird infection on my toe and ankle, losing a very rough game of football that got out of hand, and dropping my mobile phone into a bucket of water, forever robbing it of the ability to use the 1, 5 and 6 keys (no texting for me!). Of course all of this is pretty irrelevant when put into perspective. For example, my friend Emmanuel found out that his brother, who is a teacher, was stabbed by a colleague in a row over sports day. Fortunately he is fine, it could have been a lot worse.

Now, onto the Ups! Tyson's movie (Provisionally titled AIDS is Real) is in the rehearsal phase, and will start shooting in March. The cast are rehearsing in an old community centre on the outskirts of Makeni that was partially destroyed during the war. There is no roof, and trees and plants grow freely through the bricks. There is a small stage area and the sun sets behind the remaining wall casting light on the actors. It really is a beautiful setting and the group are really working hard, its just great to be around talented, hard working people.

Another recent highlight was when Sullay, one of the boys from Magbenteh village (for whom I play football) invited me to stay at his place in the village. There's no way I was going to turn down the chance to experience village life.

We started the day by walking out the Sullay's farm, which is set at the base of a huge hill. Along with his brother, he grows cassava, beans, pineapples and a number of other things, mainly for subsistence. Farming is hard work at the best of times, in the heat here it is something else! From there we had our football training, and then it was time for a shower...

We took a bucket, a bar of soap and some sandals, and walked about 500metres from the village to a valley near a stream. There I found the rest of the football team, naked and going about getting clean. I felt twenty pairs of expectant eyes burning through me as I arrived. As my shorts came off there was a massive cheer and people went back to washing. I am no stranger to a bucket shower, but I've never had such an attentive audience before. I suppose people don't see many naked white guys.

We arrived home to find a plate of cassava leaves with rice waiting for us, which was devoured with our hands and washed down with generous helpings of water from the well. Sullay then decided it would be a good time to teach me how to ride a motorbike. My first ever lesson was on the Makeni-Freetown highway, at night, with no helmet and a pillion passenger. Good times (sorry mam and dad!)

We than returned to Magbenteh, and went to look for Kalusha, who is a strange fellow who owed Sullay some money. We found him at a youth club, playing draughts (checkers to our North American friends). It is serious business here, people gamble money and play very quickly and aggressively. Its really fun to watch, and too scary to contemplate playing. I loved seeing what young people do in their spare time. Coming together and playing games.

We then returned home. Sullay's father has three wives. He has 6 sons, and 14 daughters at my last count. Many of them also have children. Needless to say, there are a lot of people living in a small house. I shared a bed with Sullay, and found it uncomfortably hot and noisy (village noise: chickens, rats, dogs, radios, people).

The whole experience was amazing. I learned so much about Salonean life. As well as this deeper understanding and appreciation of life for people here, I think I gained a new level of respect and friendship from the villagers, for living just one day with them. One day may well become day one, as I intend to spend more time there in the coming months.

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